해운대 파랑과 흐름 변동특성 분석

• 영문명: Variability of Waves and Currents in Haeundae Coastal Waters
• 발행기관: 한국연안방재학회
• 저자명: 임학수(Hak-Soo Lim)
• 간행물 정보: 『한국연안방재학회지』제2권 제3호, 119~130쪽, 전체 12쪽
• 주제분류: 사회과학 > 사회과학일반
• 파일형태: PDF
• 발행일자: 2015.07.30

영문 초록

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) in Haeundae are analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of Haeundae coastal waters. The seasonal variability of wave is analysed using AWAC observation at station BS2, located at the water depth of 22 m measured during from July 2013 to February 2015. In spring and summer, relatively week waves from the SSW and S directions were generated by southwesterly winds and typhoon, whereas in fall and winter, strong waves were predominant coming from the E and ESE directions generated by northeasterly winds and swell waves from East Sea. The estimated residual currents with moving average on the data with fortnightly data windows (MSf) show that the directions of nearshore currents at BS3 and BS4 which are located near the ends of the west and east of beach head toward SW and E in the opposite directions driven by wave-induced current. In the offshore, the residual currents at BS2 constantly flow ENE direction except in summer. This long-term observed wave and current data is also used to validate sediment transport modeling in Haeundae for developing coastal erosion control system.

목차

1. 서 론

2. 본 론

3. 결 론

키워드

Haeundae AWAC observation wave variation residual current beach erosion