뉴질랜드 등반가. The Book of A climber in New Zealand, by Malcolm Ross

Malcolm Ross 지음

뉴가출판사 2022년 08월 17일 출간

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뉴질랜드는 남섬에 쿡산이 있고 빙산임. NZ 힐러리남자가 히말리아산을 최초등반.

MALCOLM ROSS, A.C., F.R.G.S.
FORMERLY VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUB
AUTHOR OF “AORANGI”, “IN TUHOE LAND”, ETC.
ILLUSTRATED
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
1914



목차2.

CHAPTER XII
DE LA B？CHE AND THE MINARETS
Mount De la B？che―Early Attempts―An Historic Bivouac―Heroic Pluck and Endurance―View down the Valley―Reflections under a Rock―Caught in the Mist―Provisions run low―Moraines by Candle-light―Breakfast on a Summit―A Scene in Cloudland―Crossing a Bergschrund―First Ascent of the Minarets―A Quick Descent―Return to the Hut
165

CHAPTER XIII
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS
We decide to make a New Pass―Bivouac at Malte Brun―A Start by Moonlight―Early Morning on the Glacier―Dawn on the Pass―Rotten Rock and Broken Ice―Some Difficult Climbing―An Ice Fall and an Avalanche Shoot―We reach the Whymper Glacier―A Cannonade from the Dome―We explore New Country―West Coast Vegetation
178

[xvi]
CHAPTER XIV
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS―continued
An Uncomfortable Bivouac and a Frugal Meal―We start down the Valley―Through the Virgin Forest―Grandeur of the Scenery―An Interesting Discovery―Blocked by Gorges―A Veritable Fairyland―We bivouac on the River Bank―A Sleepless Night
193

CHAPTER XV
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS―concluded
An Adventure in the River―Dripping Mountaineers―The Sand-Flies have an Innings―On Short Commons―Wild Cattle in the Forest―Footprints on the Sands―Down the Broad Valley―A Habitation at last―Fyfe goes into Hospital―An Exciting Ride―Gillespie’s Beach―In a Miner’s Hat―Bivouac under a Rock―I recross the Alps alone―Back at the Hermitage
202

CHAPTER XVI
IN KIWI LAND
Early Expeditions―A Lost Explorer―The Aborigines―The Great Lakes―Primitive Navigation―The Grandeur of Te Anau―Over MacKinnon’s Pass―Views from the Summit―Mount Balloon in Dangerous Mood―A Bivouac in the Forest―Camp Cookery―Down the Arthur River―In Milford Sound
215

CHAPTER XVII
IN KIWI LAND―concluded
Some Unexplored Country―Discovery of

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CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL
PAGE
Terra Incognita―An Experiment in Acclimatization―The Volcanic Mountains―The Thermal Region―Volcano of Ngauruhoe―The Southern Alps described―Physical and Economic Aspects―Influence upon Character―The Early Explorers―Green’s Historic Climb―First Ascents―Immunity from Accident
1

CHAPTER II
IN THE OLDEN DAYS
Across the Mackenzie Plains―The Alpine Lakes―The Cuisine en route―A Jehu in a Rage―The Old Hermitage―A Passing Storm―Provisioning a Camp―A Huge Moraine―Sub-Alpine Vegetation―Adding to the Larder―Crossing an Alpine River―We bivouac in the Valley―Feathered Visitors―In Tent in the Wilds
24

CHAPTER III
IN THE OLDEN DAYS―CONCLUDED
First Sight of the Hochstetter Ice Fall―An Alpine Panorama―Bad Weather―The Musings of a Lady Mountaineer―A Storm in Camp―An Acrobatic Feat―Return to the Hermitage―A Scramble on Sealy―First Meeting with Fyfe―An Avalanche from Sefton―On the Mountain-Side
39

[xiv]
CHAPTER IV
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI
We arrange an Expedition―The Difficulties of Transport―Quicksands in the Tasman River―The Manufacture of Ski―Flight of our Porter―The Climb to the Bivouac Rock―Difficulties with the Cooker―Preliminary Step-Cutting―Plans for a Higher Bivouac
52

CHAPTER V
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI―continued
The Joys of High Bivouacking―Caught in a Storm―Thunder and Lightning―We lower the Tent―A Cold Repast―Retreat―We lose our Swags―New Fashions at the Old Hut―Other Arrivals―A Cook in Trouble―Another Storm―I return Home
65

CHAPTER VI
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI―continued
Another Attack―Digging out the Frozen Tent―Camp on the Plateau―Finding a New Route―Blocked by a Wall of Rock―Some Acrobatic Performances―Defeat once more―Finding the Lost Swags―Return to the Hut―A Fourth Attempt―Back to the Plateau―Climbing by Lantern-Light―Loss of an Ice-Axe―The Final Ice-Cap gained―Retreat once more―A Terrible Storm
77

CHAPTER VII
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI―concluded
Green’s Route abandoned―Fyfe and Graham explore the Hooker Side―Ca

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PREFACE
SOME of the material contained in the following pages appeared in the London Times. My thanks are due to the manager for allowing me to republish it. Articles that have appeared in the Alpine Journal and in some of the leading Australian and New Zealand newspapers―notably the Otago Daily Times, the Christchurch Press, the Wellington Post, the New Zealand Times, the New Zealand Herald, the Melbourne Age, and the Australasian―have also been used. These articles have all been re-written or revised. I am indebted to Dr. Teichelman for the interesting illustration facing page 296, and to the Otago Witness for the photograph of the Rev. Mr. Green, Boss, and Kaufmann. The other illustrations are from my own photographs. My thanks are also due to Mr. A. L. Mumm, late Secretary of the Alpine Club, and author of Five Months in the Himalaya, for the special interest he has taken in the publication of this book. Finally, I must record my great indebtedness to Lord Bryce, the distinguished Author and Ambassador, and a former President of the Alpine Club, for the charming introductory note that he has written.
M. R.
LONDON,
February 7, 1914.

작가정보

저자(글) Malcolm Ross

Malcolm Ross뉴질랜드의 등반가

NZ 뉴질랜드는 남섬에 쿡산이 있고 퀸스랜드는 산이 일년내내 빙산임. NZ 힐러리 라는 남자가 히말리아산을 세계 최초등반. 뉴질랜드인 는 등반 등산 이 산의 남섬의 만년설산에서 발단됨



A CLIMBERINNEW ZEALANDBYMALCOLM ROSS, A.C., F.R.G.S.FORMERLY VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUBAUTHOR OF “AORANGI”, “IN TUHOE LAND”, ETC.ILLUSTRATEDFROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHORLONDONEDWARD ARNOLD1914